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Article 1 Sinai Peninsula

Article 2 Biblical Sinai

Article 3 Diving in the Sinai

Article 4 Golf In Egypt

Article 5 The Bedouins

Article 7 Belly Dancing

article 8 Egyptian wedings

SINAI PENINSULA

In Arabic Shibh Jazirat Sina

The Sinai Peninsula is the gateway, which connects Africa and Asia, between the Gulf of Suez and the Suez Canal to the West and the Negev desert and the Gulf of Aqaba on the East. The 23,500 square miles (61,000 square km) strip of Peninsula is bound by the Mediterranean to the north and the Red Sea to the South. The peninsula was occupied by Israeli forces during the Arab-Israeli War of 1967 but was returned to Egypt in 1982, under the terms of the 1979 peace treaty. The Geological fault the Great Rift Valley extends into Africa through the Peninsula, and the Red Sea into Egypt.

Today the Sinai is two distinct regions the Southern mountainous region, which includes Mount Katrinah (Catherine), which is 8,668 feet (2,642 m) high; Umm Shawmar, 8,482 feet (2,585 m) high; Ath-Thabt, 7,997 feet (2,437 m) high; and Mount Sinai, 7,497 feet (2,285 m) high. Geologically it is made up of igneous rocks, with wadis or seasonal drainage ditches cutting sharply into the rock. It is to this region that the vast majority of the tourists come to because of the incredibly beautiful scenery and wonderful beaches. The Northern Sinai is more industrialized and the area that the Egyptians have settled as a result of petroleum deposits being found.

History of the Sinai

The Sinai has been inhabited since ancient times; the earliest written information was in 3000BC when the Egyptians went in search of the copper.

It is thought that the name is even older than that, coming from one of the old cults of the Middle East worshipping the moon god Sin. Historically it has been referred to as Mafkat or the turquoise country, because the mineral was mined here from about thirty centuries before Christ. The six mines were centred in the area known today as Wadi Maghareh and Serabit el-Khadim. Ancient Egyptians operated malachite mines at Wadi Maghareh, as the pretty bright green stone was useful for jewellery, and pottery glazing, but approximately 1,200BC they discovered that when it was subject to heat it became copper.

As the Northern trading route linking Palestine and Egypt, it would have been fortified, though nothing remains today. After the decline of the Egyptian Empire the Nabataean stone carvers' of the ancient city of Petra controlled this area until in AD 106 they were themselves defeated by the Romans. During the time of the Roman Empire it was absorbed into the area that was known as Arabia.

Certainly the Israelites must have traversed this area, though their exact routs and the date has never been irrefutably proved. It also has biblical significance as the place that Moses received the Ten Commandments, but scholars dispute whether Mount Sinai was the source. The geographical terrain of the South Sinai is mountainous and this made it a favourite abode of hermits and ascetics of the early Christian era, by the sixth Century they had become a target for robbers. In AD 530 the Byzantine emperor Justinian I built them a monastery as a refuge on the lower slopes of Mount Sinai. St Catherine's Monastery became both a refuge and a place to preserve the site of the burning bush, allegedly observed by Moses. The monastery is a functioning Greek orthodox monastery today.

The Mamluks or mameluke, controlled the Sinai from 1250 – 1517, the Mamluks were an army of slaves who had converted to Islam, and who also at times seized power for themselves. In 1518 the Ottoman Sultan, Selim the Grim, destroyed them at the Battles of Marj Dabiq and al-Raydaniyya, and from that time until the twentieth Century the Sinai was under the control of the Ottoman Empire under the control of the Pashalik of Egypt.

In 1906 it came under British control, when the Turkish government caved in to British pressure and gave it up. The Al-'Arish area was the scene of fighting between the Turks and the British during World War I, and at war's end the Sinai was turned over to Egypt and was administered by that country until the Israelis overran the peninsula in the Six-Day War of 1967.The British border runs from Rafah on the Mediterranean to Taba on the Gulf of Aqaba, and it follows the International border between Egypt and Israel. In 1948 the Egyptian army had to march through Sinai to invade the newly created state of Israel. During the 1948 Arab Israeli war the Israelis captured part of the North Eastern territory, but American and British pressure forced them to withdraw. The 1949 armistice agreement gave the Sinai and Gaza Strip to Egypt though part of it were demilitarised.

Jamal Adel Nasser, a staunch Arab nationalist came to power in 1956, and he nationalized the Suez canal, although it was owned by French and British companies’. The French and British quickly allied with Israel who was excluded from the Canal and had her port of Éclat blockaded. The accord was that the Israeli forces would invade the Sinai Peninsula and the Europeans would step in and take control of the Canal in the interests of trade. In five days Israel managed to take control of the East of Sinai, and ended the blockade as they and regained control of the Gulf of Aqaba. One the French and British forces had intervened, a UNEF force was placed in the Sinai as a buffer to prevent any further incursions in the Sinai and the Israelis withdrew.

The third clash came in 1967 and was known as the six day war. Nasser again tried to blockade Eilat and dismissed the UN security forces. Israel destroyed the Egyptian air force on the ground and it was all over it was not so much a conflict as a rout. Not surprisingly this had solved nothing and Syria and Egypt attacked the Israeli’s on their day of atonement and this was the start of the Yom Kippur War of 1973. Despite the fact the Arab forces were more organized and inflicted greater casualties, The Israeli’s still managed to encircle the Egyptian army, by invading the Sinai and crossing the Suez Canal and establishing a base on the West Bank. The war concluded with the Sinai Disengagement Agreements, which gave the Egyptian control of the Sinai and allowed them to open the Suez Canal under their control.

The 1979 Camp David agreement brought peace to the region as both Israel and Egypt decided to recognise that each were sovereign states. Israel pulled out of the region in stages, in stages and concluded in 1982.

Now Egypt had divided the Sinai into southern portion of the Sinai called Janub Sina'

in Arabic, literally "South of Sinai"; the northern portion is named Shamal Sina'.

Janub Sina' (Arabic: جنوب سيناء )

The Southern portion of the Sinai is the coastal region both on the Gulf of Aqaba and the Gulf of Suez, and it is this region which is of interest to the tourist. The mountainous area is sparsely populated and only 66,500 people live in the province of Janub Sina' The major cities include El-Tor, the capital, Dahab, Sharm el-Sheikh, Taba and Nuweiba

TOURIST ATTRACTION OF THE SINAI PENINSULA.

Mount Sinai

Also called Mountain Of Moses, or Mount Hareh, in Hebrew Har Sinai, Arabic Jabal Musa, this granite peak has important historical connotations for Jews, Christians and Muslims.
Mount Sinai is renowned as the principal site of divine revelation in Jewish history, God supp0osedly appeared to Moses and given him the Ten Commandments (Exodus 20; Deuteronomy 5).

Scholars are divided as to the route of the Israelite exodus from Egypt and the names referred to in the scriptures cannot be identified to specific places, its importance is symbolic rather than factual.
St Catherine’s monastery is probably the oldest continuously inhabited Christian monastery its library of ancient biblical manuscripts, including the famous 4th-century Greek Codex Sinaiticus has been invaluable in reconstructing the text of the Bible.

St. Catherine's Monastery

St. Catherine's Monastery is probably the oldest monastery in the world in terms of uninterrupted habitants, and it is the most popular attraction on the Peninsula. It was named after an early Martyr from Alexandria, and houses her remains.

The History

St Catherine's is a remote Greek Orthodox monastery perched more than 5,000 feet (1,500 m) above sea level, in a narrow valley of the north of Mount Musa. It was originally built to protect the site of the burning bush and to protect the hermit monks on the Sinai Peninsula. In the seventh Century AD the Muslim faith spread from Saudi Arabia and this monastery gave Christians protection. Local legend maintains that as a gesture of gratitude and conciliation the Christians erected a mosque within the walls and it is still used today.

One of its early abbots was St. John Climacus, also known as John the ladder; he was the author of one of the earliest Christian works "The Ladder of Divine Ascent". The work symbolizes the patriarch Jacob's dream of a climb towards heaven. .

The monastery today.

The number of monks is restricted to thirty six and many of those live in metochia or annexes in Suez and Cairo. The local Bedouin, despite being Muslim have historically acted as unofficial custodians of safety and in response the monastery supports them. The monastery employs Christian Arabs as fishermen on the Red Sea coast at-Tur (Tor, formerly Raithu. Many of the original features of the monastery are preserved, the original granite walls (280 by 250 feet [85 by 76 m]) and the Church dedicated to the Virgin Mary, as well as a restored mosaic of the Transfiguration, which dates from the early Byzantine period.



THE MANUSCRIPTS AND ICONS

The library houses many of the early Christian Greek and Arabic manuscripts, which date back to the eighth Century. These manuscripts are so precious that they have since been transferred to microfilm, by the American Foundation for the Study of Man, acting on behalf of the Library of Congress in Washington, D.C., and with the assistance of the University of Alexandria. The priceless manuscript collection includes the Codex Syriacus, a Syriac text of the Gospels written in the fifth Century.
In 1975 workmen accidentally penetrated a wall and discovered behind it a trove of some 3,000 additional manuscripts, including ancient biblical texts and other long lost documents. Included in the find was a Greek text in uncial script that explained the history of Greek writing. Other documents dated back to the sixth Century. Its monastery museum is home to the world's second largest collection of illuminated manuscripts in Greek, Arabic, Hebrew, Coptic and Georgian. Its museum is home to the world's second largest collection of Christian manuscripts in Greek, Arabic, Hebrew, Coptic and Georgian.
St Catherine's also houses some of the earliest Christian icons, many of them unique because they were intended for private worship rather than to be housed in a public Church collection.

TOWNS OF THE SINAI PENINSULA
Pelusium Greek Pelousion,

When this ancient city was built it was on the most Easterly point iof the River Nive, but it has long since silted up. It was called Sa'inu and also Per-Amon which means the

House of Amon, which is the derivative of its modern name Tell Farama. In its time it has been a customs post, and the main frontier post against Palestine. The ruins present there now date back to the Roams when the town was a major post on the route to the Red Sea.

Ra's Nasrani

Also known as Sharm ash Shaykh , also spelled Sharm el-Sheikh, or Solomon’s Bay, it is the cape of the Sinai Peninsula. In ancient times this town did not exist the cape was uninhabited; its importance is strategic as it is situated on the narrow entrance to the Gulf of Aqaba. Israel has only one port on the Gulf at Eilat, and this town has often been used by the Egyptians to blockade Eilat and prevent shipping from reaching it. The Israelis acting for the British in the Suez crisis of 1956 captured the guns the Egyptians positioned here. Since the early 1980’s it has been important as a diving site, the Israelis developed it as a recreational area. Since the area has been given to Egypt it has been realized that it is the heart of the Red Sea Riviera, and it has now an airport.

Serabit el-Khadim

Turquoise is an opaque, blue-to-green mineral ashalik that has been prized for millennium in Egyptian history, although recently its value has been diminished by synthetic stones. Turquoise has been mined here in Sinai since about 3,000BC and six mines survive today. Hathor the ancient goddess was personified as the Milky Way and she was also the patron Saint of Miners’.

The Egyptian use of turquoise is traceable back as far as 3000BC, and the most famous pieces were recovered from the tomb of Tutankhamen’s tomb, his iconic burial mask illustrated below displays liberal use of the stone.

Serabit el-Khadim is not signposted but if you have a yearning for a private sight seeing day it is an excellent place to explore and it has a stark rugged beauty. It has pharoic ruins which are characterised by cartouches and plinths. The road is unpaved from the Gulf of Suez highway. The climb to the temple takes about two hours but bear in mind that there is no other source of water other than local wells. The Bedouins do act as unofficial tour guides and they will assist tourists.

Tur, at-

A major administrative town of the southwestern Sinai Peninsula, since the Roman times, it is situated on the Gulf of Suez. Since medieval times until the last Century it was a quarantine station for hajj pilgrims. Until the opening of the Suez Canal in 1869, at-Tur was also a port for the Red Sea trade. At-Tur is a traditional gathering place for Twara Bedouin who grow agricultural produce in the area, however they are still migratory as they move to find grazing lands for their camels, donkeys, sheep, and goats. Many of the town's people are Christian employed by St Catherine's monastery. The town has a hot sulphur spring and spa.

Recreational activities on the Sinai.

Above water there are plenty of other water sports available such as jet skiing and water skiing, plus there is typical resort entertainment with restaurants, discos, bars and shops. There are also various organised day trips such as quad biking or jeep safaris in the Sinai desert, trips to Mount Sinai and the 6th Century St Catherine’s Monastery. There is a multitude of sporting activities available on the Sinai Peninsula, from camel riding, horse riding to golf and crazy golf.

Golf

Taba heights has one of the few golf courses in the world in a desert and offering a panoramic vista of three other countries. There is an uninterrupted view of the Arabian coastline showing Jordan Saudi Arabia and Israel. The golf course meets both European and American criteria for golf. There is over 7000 yards to play before getting to the nineteenth, at its height the game is played at 70 meters above sea level. Be aware that because of the elevation and the almost guaranteed sun every day of the year if you play this course the use of golf carts is mandatory. The golf course has some challenges in the form of three lakes, as well as the elevated fairways.

Biblical Sinai

"In the third month, when the children of Israel were gone forth out of the land of Egypt, the same day came they into the wilderness of Sinai..." --Exodus, Chapter 19

This is the start of the epic tale of Moses and the Israelites through the barren waste of Sinai. Moses is probably the most important biblical figure in the Sinai if only because the saga is important in Judaic history, Christianity in the early gospels and Islam. To the Jews he was a prophet, a lawmaker and one of the founders of a Judaism, which was monotheist, and demanded complete loyalty to God. Christianity also regards Moses as crucial especially within the texts of the early gospels. Jesus repeatedly corroborates Mosaic Law, and Moses appears as a metonymy for Torah at the transfiguration, the book of Hebrews acclaims him to be righteous. He supposedly predicts the crucifixion when he lifts the brazen serpent whilst in the wilderness. Islam accepts him as a prophet, and he is venerated as the man who gave laws.

Unfortunately historians and theologians fail to agree where the Egyptians crossed the Red Sea, and where Moses received the commandments. There are three theories of where Moses crossed into Egypt, some scholars said he came out of Suez, and then crossed into the Sinai, whilst a second theory is the town of Ain Sukna. It is however generally agreed that the Nile Delta would have been the safest route the other routes would have gone past the ancient copper and turquoise mines that would have been heavily guarded.

Not only is it contentious the route they took into Egypt there is no agreement what they did once they got there, but, they were there long enough to make a significant impact

"The sojourning of the children of Israel which they sojourned in Egypt and in the land of Canaan was four hundred and thirty years;"

Mount Sinai has been placed in Saudi, Egypt, or Southern Israel depending on the scholar. Even if the Gebel Musa, the Mountain of Moses is more symbolic than factual it has not stopped millions of Jews Christians and Muslims from making the pilgrimage. There is no evidence whatsoever that this peak had anything to do with Moses, it is neither the most picturesque or the highest peak, but it does have a fourth century Coptic Church built where the burning bush was meant to be. Later on this site became part of the modern St Catherine’s monastery.

Wherever they went they must have proceeded slowly and legend has it that they were away for four decades and the Sinai Peninsula is not that large, the sense of history is present in every olive tree and wadi. Wadi Feiran is a classic example, the Sinai’s largest wadi or drainage ditch has tremendous archaeological significance. The Pearl of the Sinai, it has the largest oasis on the Peninsula but its chief importance is Wadi is the site of an ancient battle it is Rhefidim.

"And all the congregation of the children of Israel journeyed from the wilderness of Sin, after their journeying, according to the commandment of the Lord, and pitched in Rephidim...Then came Amalek and fought with Israel in Rephidim" (Exodus, 17:1,8).

Before Moses battled with the Amelicites he camped here and struck the bare barren rock with his staff and brought forth water in the land of the desert, so that the Hebrews could drink.

By the fourth Century it had become an important pilgrimage site for both Jews and Christians and there are still some Church ruins there today. Later it was to become a resting place for pilgrims to St Catherine’s and also Mount Sinai. On top of Mount Tahoun

There is an ancient cross, as Moses and Aaron prayed and oversaw Joshua defeat the Amalekites. There is a Greek monastery referred to as The Greek Seven Girls' Monastery, or the Monastery of Moses, commemorates the actual battle site. Ancient biblical paths are visible in the rock face overlooking the Wadi, and there are the remains of a cemetery and two Byzantine churches. Today it is important as an oasis and several crops are cultivated, but the dates that fed the Hebrews are still grown.

As captivating as the Wadi's biblical lore are its natural spectacles. Chief among these is the Oasis of Feiran, the largest oasis in all of Sinai. The heart of the oasis is a spectacular and luxuriant sprawl of palms that stretches over four kilometers in length, the reason why Feiran is called the "Pearl of Sinai." Along the edges of the oasis and the wadi are the dramatic, often sheer cliffs of the wadi wall, which contribute to the valley's secretive and paradisiacal atmosphere.

Precise dates for Moses are impossible to determine, but the Egyptian pharaoh mentioned in Exodus is likely to be Ramses II, a member of the Nineteenth Dynasty of Egypt who reigned from 1304 to 1237 BC. As a Levite in Egypt he came under Pharoanic decree that all newborn male Hebrews be slain. His family sheltered him for weeks and when this policy was no longer effective they constructed a basket from reeds and floated him in the Nile. Eventually he was found by the daughter of Ramses II, or the reigning Pharoah and brought up as a member of her household.

However biblical accounts decree that he could not escape his destiny and the plight of his people was his responsibility. He was forced to flee as a fugitive when he escaped to Midian, he had killed an Egyptian overseer as retribution for killing a Hebrew slave. Whilst in Midian he married the daughter of Jethro, Zipporah. When God appeared to him in the burning bush it was taken as a sign to return to Egypt to lead the Hebrew people out of slavery.

With his brother Aaron he interceded with the Pharaoh to negotiate a settlement so that they could leave, and the Pharaoh agreed to this after the land of Egypt was ravaged by plagues. However the pharaoh reneged on his promise to give the Hebrews safe passage and his armies pursued them, but they all drowned in the Red Sea or the Reed Sea as it was called by the Hebrews.

Moses led the people to Mt. Horeb (Mt. Sinai), where he received the Ten Commandments from God. The Torah also states that he was a lawgiver, as he had given the people an entire legal code. This code specifically instructed the building of the tabernacle and organized the complete judicial system.

While Moses was on the mountain receiving the new legal code, the people became restless and persuaded Aaron to construct an iconic golden calf, which became the focus of worship, reminiscent of the ancient Egyptian gods. When Moses returned he destroyed the

Calf and quelled the rebels, but God had already decided to select Moses’ family and descendants to be the chosen ones. Moses managed to persuade God not to destroy the Hebrews but they were punished by being denied the right to cross into the Promised Land until they had learnt their lesson not to worship false idols It was to be another four decades before they had the earned the right to cross the River Jordan to the promised Land.

While at Sinai, Moses had wished to see God but was told that such a vision would destroy him; God eventually relented and allowed Moses to catch a glimpse of his back. Moses retained this vision until his death in Trans Jordan. Though the precise specific is unknown, Islamic tradition has identified multiple grave sites; one of the most famous being Nebi Musa.

Diving in the Sinai

The RED Sea.

The Red Sea is an oxymoron, a body of crystal clear blue water which appears pale aquamarine green in the shadows, so how and why did it get its name. Some scholars believe that it comes from the Mare Nostrum the red sea, named after the red back drop f the mountains tumbling down to the shoreline. Other theories for the name are the red algae present in the waters, Trichodesmium Erythraeum, when they begin to die the colour of the sea appear to be rusty.

Some say the name is taken from the sometimes-peculiar red colouring on the waters caused by the light of the setting sun reflecting off the mountain ranges of the surrounding Sinai Peninsula. In Hebrew the mountains translate as “the Rubi Mountains”. Other say it is a mistake made by early biblical scholars when describing the parting of the Red Sea in Exodus. In Hebrew that specific body of water is referred to as “yam suph”, a direct translation is the sea of reeds, which has then been transcribed incorrectly or red ahs become as diminutive.

The Arabs were one of the first maritime nations and the red sea has been for centuries a magnet for travelers, invaders, marauders, pilgrims, merchants, pirates, smugglers, and adventurers

Diving in the Red Sea.

The ancient cities of Egypt inspire a sense of history, a timeless reminder of the rhythm of life. In the South Sinai the desert and dramatic red mountains meet the sea, and we start thinking of recreation. Not only does the Red Sea offer some of the best diving in the world, it offers something more. Many of the reefs off Dahab are accessed from the beach, that means easy access for more people. The elderly can fully indulge their passion for diving as their are no difficult access problems, though they should check with their dive masters about strong currents.

Diving in the Red Sea is certainly an experience, the powdery white sands and the clear blue wasters has seduced any diver lucky enough experience to it. The varieties of coral are incredible with over four hundred species and offering an almost unparallel opportunity to witness soft corals. It takes quite a time for coral reefs to form, and a nano second to be careless and step on a piece of coral, there are a lot of people committed to preserving the reefs on the Red Sea and as such diving practices have altered. The Egyptian authorities have woken up to the fact that diving and waters ports are crucial to the development of the Sinai as a thriving tourist industry. Despite financial constraints the marine parks are being protected with rangers supervising activities.

Dahab, has become synonymous with the “Blue Hole”, famous for its corals and fish, and acclaimed to be one of the best dive sites of the Sinai. An hour from Taba along the coastal road, which offers breathtaking scenery of the mountains almost falling into the sea, is the oasis of Nuweiba. The atmosphere of Nuweiba is so laid back it is horizontal, and you can fall back into a relaxing holiday with spectacular diving opportunities. Many of the beaches have dives, which you access by walking along a gradual decline on the beach, which makes them perfect both for the more mature diver and also the novice or the beginner. It is the start point to explore the peninsula either by camel or jeep.

Ras Abu Galloum has stronger currents and exquisite reef tables so it offers some great drift diving for the fit and more experienced diver with the usual fantastic array of reef fish, soft corals as well as the elusive, evocative seahorses. The possibilities stupendous underwater photograph is anywhere off Egypt, in the red sea, but here the area is famous for a dolphin that has allegedly befriended a Bedouin tribesman.

Taba Nuweiba, and Dahab offer world class diving at really cheap affordable prices less than $20 dollars US, and they are even cheaper for multiple dives. They used to be extremely expensive when the Israelis controlled the Peninsula, but now the Israelis visit in less numbers they offer fantastic bargains.

What is diving.

Scuba diving means going underwater with a self contained underwater breathing apparatus (scuba). The mouthpiece for scuba was invented by Jacques Cousteau, who did much to popularise the exploration of marine environments.

Night diving

Night diving is a completely different experience you have the opportunity to see fish feeding and the colours appear brighter under torchlight. The best aspect of night diving is that some of the fish get mesmerised by lights and will simply stop and stare giving you the opportunity to observe them more closely and set up the perfect photograph. Some of the marine parks such as Ras Muhammed National Marine Park forbid all night diving but there are several sites at Dahab where this is possible. As is illustrated below the reds appear redder in a night dive.

What you need to go diving

Certification

To dive you need open water diving certificate and the most accepted certificate within the RED Sea area is the P.A.D.I. certificate. However do not despair if you have not got a certificate most of the dive centers offer beginners’ tuition, which culminates in three open water dives, and a certificate. Most dive centers offer you a chance to have an introductory dive. This is short usually half an hour and you have a chance to experience the underwater marine environment. It is not always possible but in most cases an introductory dive means that you will want to continue and many dive centers offer a reduction on a beginners course if you have taken an introductory dive with them within a certain time period.

What is coral

Coral is an invertebrate creature, and when it dies its skeleton becomes the structure on which new coral will form. It depends on algae to provide its food. The sun is the source of energy for a coral reef in the wild, which is why coral reefs are not found deeper in the ocean. Photosynthesis is the process by which algae and other plants convert light energy into chemical energy. Energy goes up the food chain when parrotfish eat the algae from rocks. They are so called because their hard pointed mouth resembles the beak of a parrot, and it is this adaptation, which allows it to forage.

Reef building corals work together with microscopic algae, called zooxanthellae, which are single celled algae. It is the nutrients supplied by the zooxanthellae that make it possible for the corals to grow and reproduce. However it is a symbiotic relationship as they both need each other. Zooxanthellae provide the corals with food and in return, the coral provides protection and access to light.

The body of coral consists of a polyp, which is a tubular cylinder attached to a surface. The mouth of the coral is at the unattached end, and the tentacles have nematoctsts that paralyse prey. Reproduction occurs by budding, as the polyps form the old ones die but the skeletons remain. Examples of coral are soft, hard, horny and blue coral. The soft corals internal skeletons consist of separate needlelike structures. Horny corals include the ribbon like sea fans, and they are the most prevalent coral of the shallows, they include the semi precious coral used in jewellery and sold as rose coral. Stony corals are the most widely distributed corals in all oceans and at all depths.

Stony coral is made up almost entirely of calcium carbonate and the common types are named after the shapes they assume examples being star mushroom, brain, and stag horn coral. They are very slow growing but their growth does alter with the water temperature, food supply and the age of the polyps themselves, but in general they are slow developers only growing at a rate of approximately 0.5 to 2.8 cm per year. In general coral reefs resemble underwater gardens as the coral comes in every imaginable hue, but the skeleton is always white which is why when it dies it becomes white. That means there is no point in breaking off a piece and taking it home as a souvenir. An exception to this is the rose coral used in jewellery because it never fades.

There are three types of reef, the barriers, the fringes and the atolls often associated with the rim of extinct volcanoes, and each coral reef will typically be composed of more than one type of coral. Whatever the type of reef, they shelter many different types of marine life and have one of the most complex and unpredictable ecosystems. They are unpredictable because of the nature of the ecosystem, but they are also threatened by global warming when the water gets warmer it bleaches the colour a phenomenon that occurred in the Maldives a few years ago. Chemical pollution also upsets the delicate balance and they do suffer long term damage from boat anchors, and other hazards.

Whether you are diving for the first time or the thousandth the Red Sea marine life is exceptional, offering something for every level of experience. There are many reefs and also a wide variet of wreck to choose from. Coral comes in all shapes and sizes and swimming amongst it is like viewing your personal marine garden. Some corals trail, others look like leaves, whilst brain coral has channels that make it look like the human brain. Coral is both hard and soft and both types are adundant in the red Sea.

Where to DIVE

It makes little difference as the diving is so fabulous all along the Red Sea wherever you choose to dive will offer you a superlative experience. Whether you are a bginner or an experienced pro the diverse marine life is truly exceptional. Certainly diving in the Red Sea off the coast of Egypt offers a very diverse change of scenery as mush of the overland scenery is desert. South of Sharm el-Sheikh, is the world heritage site Ras Mohammed National Park and it hands two famous wrecks, both Britishm, the Dunraven and the Thistlegorm.

Dahab

The Dahab is unique in the sense that most of the dives are accessible from the shore, with an immense display of both hard and soft corals. The marine life is diverse but includes the larger species, the manta rays, turtles, puffer fish, and barracuda. The Islands, situated

South of Dahab is famous for its diverse and rich coral which house the fish. The South offers an opportunity to view the open water fish and sharks, as the water is deeper, notably off Sharm el-Sheikh, Gordon Reef and Jackson Reef. Shark’s bay has a deep canyon offshore and there are many beautiful mantra rays. Photography is excellent wherever you are but the Tower, just south of Na'ama Bay is famous for sea horses and ghost pipe. As is normal with most coral reefs the majority of marine life can be viewed at around thirty five meters in depth. There is a choice of reef diving wall diving or wreck diving. You should experience swimming with turtles, snapper and barracuda. Its gentle reef slopes are perfect for the beginner, but there are more challenging dive for the more advanced divers.

A description of some of the dive sites.

Blue holes The Bells

For the fans of the deep this is one of the most spectacular sights in the area, offering shore dives and drop off diving, the height is over 200 meters. The bells is a very small hole in at 100 feet in a sheer wall that drops to over 2500 feet. The most comfortable descent is upside down looking out with the wall behind you. To exit from the shore you need to be a strong swimmer, as you have to battle some strong currents so be aware of your air supply

The Canyon.

This dive site is spectacular for all levels. From a shore entry there is a gradual drop down to hundreds of meters. The canyon walls are a natural tunnel within the seabed with various access points. As you ascend you come out in a cave called the fish bowl. Raspberry coral is one of the features of this stunning dive. The water is alive with fish, Napoleon wrasse, moray ells, octopus that change colour from brown to white and the lionfish.

The Caves

This large overhanging pinnacle has some beautiful rock formations, and it harbours a wide variety of marine life. You access from the shore and as you follow the shoreline the garden ells are burrowing into the sand at your feet. You should be able to see the Napoleons and turtles, as well as puffer fish in the “cave”.

This is a dive for the fit as the waves crash into the shores, which make the entry and exit hard work. However it is a dive that is worth it as once in the under hang there is a shallow reef all around and below with abundant hard and soft corals, a tiger shark is sometimes spotted .

The Eel Garden

Aptly named because of the number of garden eels at the entrance, there are also some fairly large moray’s usually present. Look out for the rare ghost pipefish, which is often seen here. The range of both hard and soft coral is amazing. It is also accessible as a snorkelling area when resting between dives.

Dive Site: El Shugarat

Not the most spectacular of the dive sites but worth a visit for the view of the fan field coral.

Gabr el Bint the “Grave of the Girl.

Gabr el Bint was a favourite dive site until a massive underwater rock slide in September 2006. However although it has killed all the coral it has created a crevice seven feet wide and a hundred and fifty feet deep. However it looks dramatic and much deeper, and it is only the South reef the North reef is untouched and both reefs are still worth seeing. Most of the dive sites in the Red Sea are accessible from the shore but this one needs boat access and that means that in the past it has had fewer divers and the North of the reef is still in pristine condition, it is for me one of the most breath taking dives in the region. However it is worth taking up to the minute advice concerning this dive ask at your dive station.

Golden Blocks

Golden Blocks is not the best dive site, but it is an excellent place to start the drift dive towards Moray Garden. Its best features are the vast colourful nudibranches, and it is the site of the only wreck outside Dahab. Almost all the species of coral can be seen here as little islands, the golden blocks themselves are coral blocks right to the surface, which are covered with anthias. A plus is the number of mantra rays sighted

The Islands is an excellent snorkeling site as well as dive site as most of the marine life is at less than thirty feet, which means that the natural light preserves the colours and keeps them rich and vibrant. The marine life is outstanding with magnificent glassfish and angelfish meandering through some huge brain coral.

Lighthouse.

The lighthouse is named after it nearby lighthouse and it makes a great choice for a night dive as the access is a crowded beach and your belongings are more secure at night. It is famous fro the frogfish that are present at the entrance. Always consider wearing a full wetsuit when diving at night as a precaution. There are some excellent fluorescent fish

to be seen at this dive site at night, so be prepared to spend a few minutes without torches, but if it is your first night dive then leave it until the last five minutes. The sea urchins are brilliant after dark.

Shoe Stump

Show stump is called 'Bbachhacha” or spray water by the Bedouins and it has its rather prosaic title because the dive entrance used to be marked by a wooden stump with an old shoe nailed to it. If the wind id high the site is difficult to get to because the water are choppy, but it is worth it for the second or third dive of the day as the best corals are at five meters.

However if you are not confidant in narrow spaces then avoid this dive site as the entrance is down a twenty-foot tunnel, to the outer reef. The table corals give plenty of shelter to the sweetlips, anthias and parrotfish as well as giant Napoleon’s. The best section of the reef is in fact at the exit so save enough air to linger for a few minutes.

Sharm El Sheikh

There are nearly fifty dive sites in the area that offers a diving experience at all levels from the beginner to advanced, reef diving wall diving and wreck diving. For Europeans it doffers a world-class heritage site with easy cheap access from Europe. The geographical area of Sharm is from the Straits of Tiran with four circular reefs, to the Ras Mohammed National Park, which offers coral gardens and drifts and wreck diving. You can undertake miniature marine safaris and stay overnight on a boat if you wish to dive the Dunraven and Thistlegorm wrecks. The Straits of Tiran are at the junction of where the Red Sea meets the Gulf of Aqaba, and strong currents attract exceptional marine life it is almost the only place that you have a chance to sea hammerheads all year. Because of the strong currents there are many opportunities to indulge in drift diving.

Dive Sites.

Jackfish Alley.

This is a great place to snorkel as well as dive, as the area is accessed from the beach. The beginning part of the dive is a shallow cave where there are many types of angel fish including many regals.

Thomas reef

Thomas reef is the smallest of the Tiran reefs and is many peoples favourite reef with Jackfish alley. For any one with a passion for soft coral this has to be the best display in the whole of the Sinai. Most people favour the enormous field of Dendronephthya. This soft coral is often photographed when it is inflated with water. They are the most spectacular organism to be found on a coral reef as they lack ooxanthellae so their calcareaous sclerites are clearly visible in every hue imaginable, they are purples, coral, orange yellow all the hues are brilliantly displayed. Most of the marine life is at a shallow depth however advanced divers have an option of an extra dive to the deep canyon.

It is possible to dive the whole of this reef if your lungs are good and the currents are gentle, but it is an area that does experience cross currents and it may be necessary at certain time to fin very hard.

Dive Sites for Advanced Divers.

El-Akhawein (The Brothers)

The brothers are two uninhabited remote islands, and they offer unsurpassed coral growth and marine wildlife. They are characterized by steep vertical walls, in which you are reminded how rough the sea can be, because they house two wrecks, the Aida and the Numidia. Both of the islands are bare rock, and this offers a stark contrast

This is the most remote and deep of the Egyptian dive stations in the Red sea, it is located South of Safaga and the Sinai Peninsula; it is famous for its sheep sheer drops, and mantra rays. It is fairly remote as it takers about eight hours to get there by boat, and that in itself has its perils, the current can be unpredictable, and the depth of the water makes this more dangerous. The water can suck you down and then push you back up again. That can be scary because the depth range is from 20 feet to 200 feet. Drift diving can be a normal occurrence. It is recommended for dive masters and instructors only as there are no emergency services available.

Wreck diving

Aida the brothers

She was launched in 1911 as a supply vessel, but then she was commandeered by the Egyptian Navy to ferry troops. During the Second World War she was bombed while at anchor, but after repairs she became a supply ship once again. On 15 September 1957 the crew of the Aida were attempting to offload her cargo and drop off the replacement crew for the lighthouse on Big Brother, during this operation the winds drove her on to the rocks and she began to sink. As she sank she drifted towards the reef until her bows were resting on the reef, until the ship listed at an angle, which caused her to break up on the reef.

Golf in Egypt.

Golf is flourishing in a region that is predominantly desert and Egypt has captured her share of the market. There are a large number of ex pats who have made the game popular amongst the local elite. Golf may seem a strange game for an Egyptian but Egypt being Egypt they have branded the game with their own inimitable marks. You don’t play on the greens so much as the browns; it is not unusual to play on a floodlit green, where your own personal Son Et Lumière picks out the greens and blues in the tails of the peacocks, under the shadow of the enigmatic sphinx. It might not be the European way but it sure beats the scorching summer sun. Albatrosses, bogeys, and bunkers are not part of the ancient Egyptian culture or the vernacular language, but they have made the stamp as personal as any Pharaohs hieroglyphic. Splendid birds stroll across verdant lawn, which have become very popular in the last ten years. Golf in Egypt is a magazine, which assists the aficionados to keep a track of the courses, which are attracting increased foreign interest.

It all started fro the Egyptians when urban development meant that new housing developments had the land to build golf courses the first being the Katameya Heights Golf and Tennis Resort, a 400-acre, exclusive pleasure complex with 280 villas and a 27-hole course next to a luxury development. There are only around 2,500 players in Egypt, despite the fact that the British imported the game in 1886. They built a club for the officers’, the Gezira Club, still exist and has become the chic place to be in the capital. There has been a golf course under the shadow of the of the 4,500-year-old Pyramids of Giza for a hundred years, and many foreign golfers played the Egyptian Open between the wars. However golf hardly thrived under President Nasser’s populist ethos in the 1960’s and the club was broken down to become more egalitarian. Nowadays it is becoming the game of choice for the affluent and thriving middle classes.

Bedouin

The Bedouin is an Arab speaking member of a Middle Eastern desert tribe, specifically from Arabia, Iraq, Syria and Jordan. In Arabic in singular they are Badawi and as a tribe they are Badw, their name may also be spelt Beduin, which means desert dweller. In numbers the Bedouin constitute a very small population in Sinai, but they utilize a large part of the land. They are in general herders who migrate into the desert during the rainy season and move back to cultivate the land in the summer.

Historically and culturally they have had nothing to do with agriculture and manual labour, but the last fifty years have seen them become less nomadic and more settled. They rank in prestige according to the animals that they graze and the crème de al crème are the camel grazers’. This group consists of large tribes that nomadically traverse the Sahara, Syrian and Arabian deserts. Next in line come the goat and sheep nomads, but they are less common in the Sinai. The cattle Bedouins are mainly in the Sudan.

There have been many changes in Bedouin society in the last hundred years. One of the biggest changes was robbing them of their grazing rights (Jordan) or making them submit to the sovereignty of the country in whose domain they were currently residing, and also requiring that they have passports. These constraints had an effect on the marauding aspects of the Bedouin’s life and it has inhibited tribal feuding. Despite economic and cultural changes in a modern world the tribal aspects of the Bedouin have continued they still retain extended, patrilineal, endogamous and polygamous families. Both the head of the family and the head of the larger social unit or tribe are called a sheikh, and he rules the tribe with an informal group of male elders.

Camel Racing Survives in Bedouin Societies

The entire culture of the Sinai could not have developed without the bond between man and the dromedary camel. As a beast of burden it was one of the few animals equipped to survive and even thrive in the desert and without it the Bedouin could not had mobility and freedom. It helped them to forge the sense of independence and be self reliant, without it they would have been imprisoned in one place.

They celebrate the camel the qasidah their native verse they revere the naqah the female camel. However a man’s status and wealth was measured not just in the number of camels he owned, but also their speed and endurance. The caravan trade would never have been possible without the camel not only was it crucial to the economy it was the basis of information and knowledge.

Camels are to Bedouins what cows are to the Nuer tribes in south Sudan and the Hindus in India; they are a means of transport, companions, and hair to make tents and clothes, as well as being providers of meat, milk.

Camel racing is popular all over the Middle East and parts of Asia; it has even migrated to the United States and Australia. Originally within local Bedouin culture it was for the common man, a ritual at weddings and ceremonial occasions. Today camel racing has become big business in the Middle East and more the Province of the Kings and sheiks than the Bedouin; and not surprisingly this has made the price of camels soar. You can still see a camel wandering around on the Sinai Peninsula but these days in the Middle East a fast command will cost anything up to a half a million dollars. Camel training has become a fast and furious business, and even camel breeders have changed tack with the advent of new technologies.

Not today the Bedouin camel indolently grazing out the back of the Bedouin tent. The Transfer Research Centre for Racing Camels produced the world’s first embryo calves from racing camels, when the embryo was transferred. Nowadays many of the thirty embryos produced by a camel are likely to be stored in liquid nitrogen and then transferred to waiting mothers. It is now over ten years since the world’s first camel baby was born from a frozen embryo.

In February 1995 the world’s first baby camel was born from a frozen embryo-transfer. The popularity of the camel racing has become so important in the Middle East that The United Arab Emirate’s has the al-Ain Centre whose mission statement id to improve the genetic breed of the camel and make it faster, by improving the knowledge of how it is reproduced.

Bedouins and Falconry.

The sport of falconry (al-qanas) is still popular amongst the Bedouins; historically it was so important in the Middle East that the Abu Dhabi Falcon Research Hospital is one of the few hospital of its type in the world dedicated to the medical care of the falcon.

Originally the birds supplemented the tribes’ diet, but today they are a symbol of bravery and loyalty. In size they are small but they can command prices of $330 to $330,000, depending on their speed and eyesight. The females can command the highest price as they are regarded as superior hunters. The Bedouin catch wild birds during their migratory flights and then train them to hunt.

Before the trainer even starts to train the bird they spend a month accustoming the birds to human contact, they hold it, hand feed it and get it used to wearing the “burqu”. Burqu has two meanings in Arabic, it is the soft cloth used in falconry and the woman’s veil which reveal only the eyes. Once it has adjusted to its handler then the burqu is removed and trained to jump from a human hand to a perch. The bird is trained to attack prey, but at this point it is still on a leash. Later it is unleashed to attack pigeons.

Once it is sufficiently trained to catch prey then the men go out on hunting parties and cook the game in the evening and presumably have the Bedouin equivalent of the tall fish story, as they brag about the birds’ bravery. Whilst these hunting parties sound romantic they have had a serious environmental impact in Egypt, as wealthy Arabs trade in rare falcons. Also they have encroached on areas that the Egyptian government has declared to protect deer and endangered species such as the mountain rabbit. Egyptian Environmental Agency employs over fifty rangers to work with the Bedouin in the Sinai to stamp out these practices and fine the perpetrators.

The Beduoin and Medicine

"It is not the strongest of the species that survive, nor the most intelligent, but the one most responsive to change." -Charles Darwin

The elements of the traditional Bedouin medicine involve both curative and preventative practices. Aspects of preventative medicine can be primitive and involve the hanging of amulets, reciting verses from the Quran, and generally making sure that none of the family or the tribe or the animals are subject to the “Evil eye”. To outwit the evil eye there are complicated rituals and behavioural practices. The evil eye is the most malevolent of the diseases and those most at risk are the very young and pregnant women. Some sociologists believe that the veiling of women resulted from a belief that beauty is defenseless and therefore the Bedouin women veil themselves to hide pregnancy. Despite the knowledge of the curative and palliative properties of plants traditional Bedouin medicine is rooted in the belief that everything that happened, lucky and evil are all the will of Allah and your fate must be accepted. Allah uses the medium of traditional healers to cure the sick.

They believe in dietary laws and ancient rules of hygiene that have preserved the people for Centuries, but are still valid today, they avoid eating carrion and pork and spoiled food, as well as contaminated water, and avoid any situation, which may bring them into contact with contagious diseases. A respect for the rules and maintaining the rituals are all a healthy foundation fro the survival of a desert people

"Say: Naught befalleth us save that which Allah hath decreed for us. He is our protecting power. In Allah let believers put their trust" (Quran 9:51).

However there is a danger that this ancient medicinal knowledge will be lost in the race towards modernity. Herbs have been important Shweiks was used against hepatitis B, whilst the Bedouins had their own remedy for colonic malfunctions in al-ashkhar. They also had the precursor for viagra in tartouth, which is now sold in Britain as a sexual enhancer. The modern Bedouin is as likely to use a modern pharmacist rather than the old herbal medicines.

The Beduoin and Biodiversity Conservation

South Sinai has one of the most starkly beautiful and stunning landscapes in the world, and fortunately the Egyptian government has recognized this and has made attempts to preserve the landscapes and animal life with National parks. “Ras Mohammed” is probably Egypt’s most famous and prestigious park. Its most famous resort is “Sharm el Sheikh” and Na’ama Bay”. Wadi Kid runs through it and it has a spectacular abundance of vegetation, as a result of the drainage system. The desert is by no means lifeless and the flora and fauna of this well watered wadi is stunning. Acacia trees are evident everywhere and where the camels graze they have an umbrella shape where the camels have stripped the underneath branches.

It is believed that the camels themselves brought this tree here in their stomachs from Africa, it was passed out of their system in their dung and it then germinated in the desert of the Sinai. Normally this tree requires a huge amount of water but it has adapted to the South Sinai dryness. The tree has developed large thorns, which reduce evaporation, and when you break one from the plant you can see a worm, which is capable of burrowing down to a depth of nearly a hundred feet to collect water.

The gum is extracted from the tree for glue, but the Bedouins use its wood for charcoal, as it is slow burning. The goat herders’ use a long curved stick to hook down the wood that is old to burn, but they leave the green wood behind. They shake the small leaves for their animals to eat. One of the adaptations that the tree has had to make is that its rate of growth has slowed down as it has little water, and surprisingly attempts to irrigate the tree have not speeded up the process. It has another use when the Bedouins uproot and leave they may leave their tent wrapped up within the branches where they expect to be able to collect it on their return.

At the base of the Wadi Kid where the desert touches the emerald ocean, there is a very unusual display of fertility; the area has abundant mangroves as well as spectacular bird and wild life. The top of the wadi is a garden area full of date palms. This is the area of Nabq, the largest of the protected regions on the Gulf of Aqaba, it covers over 600 square kilometers. The 4.8 kilometers of mangrove swamps are the most northerly on the Sinai and also the largest. The mangroves in the bay area have filtered the salt water through the roots and then get rid of any remaining crystals through the leaves.

They are crucial to the maintenance of biodiversity in the area; they shelter a plethora of animal life. There roots are deep and they provide calm waters to protect both baby fish and small species. Rare birds migrating such as the storks need it as a food source. There are often heron osprey Pacific Golden Plover; Black bellied Plover and the Caspian Tern in the area. Both foxes and gazelle are also present.

Coral reefs are the result of symbiosis between coral animals, the polyps, and microscopic algae the zooxanthellae which live within their tissues. The polyp has stinging cells, which paralyse passing plankton and allow it to feed. The polyps require the zooxanthellae to convert sunlight, carbon dioxide and their own wastes into oxygen and carbohydrates. They use these to make calcium carbonates, which form the skeleton of the coral reefs, 137 species of coral are found on reefs in Southern Sinai.

These reefs are in a miniature ecosystem and are in a constant state of change. Corals grow and extend the reef, but at the same time the animals feeding on it, the sponges, bivalves, urchins, and marine fish are destroying the reef. The fauna is under attack from the barracuda, emperors, jacks and other large marine fish. If this delicate balance is not maintained then the peninsula loses its diversity and will get fewer tourists.

Physical processes link all the various ecosystems of the desert, mountains, reef and beach. The high altitude desert is connected to the coastline by the wadis, which catch the infrequent rainwater to take it down the mountainsides to the lower levels. In its wake the fast moving water has seeds and organic matter, which it transports, to the lowlands. They also have alluvium deposits in excess of 150 meters, this acts as an aquifer, the mangroves below need the nutrient rich sediments brought by the floods.

Bedouin tribes still tend their flocks of camels, sheep, and goats in traditional fashion and manage the environment according to strict tribal laws. They are aware of the importance of the Nubian ibex, gazelles, hyrax, foxes, herons, gulls, ospreys, spoonbills and transient storks, as well as the 134 types of flora. However the balance is very delicate and dry areas take a long time to recover if they have sustained damage because the rate of growth and therefore regeneration is slow.

Tourists have had a tremendous impact on this fragile region, every time a boat drops anchor it destroys a part of the coral reef. One of the major problems has been the higher levels of erosion associated with compact sand. Small invertebrates have been destroyed as a result of four-wheel drive activity along the beach, and this means the sand does not become aerated properly and erode faster. The same vehicles are capable of wreaking havoc with flora as they destroy the seeds brought down from the mountains that are waiting to germinate. Off-track driving has a negative impact on the sand dunes and increases erosion especially when the wadis are subjected to flash floods.

Once these areas have been declared protected as they were twenty years ago the resources can be deployed to protect them, both with manpower and legal constraints. Surprisingly the government is aware of the economic detritus that they will suffer if they do not preserve what they have.

A massive teaching programme with hotel staff, tour operators and tourists alike ensures that rules are adhered to. The private sector has realised it must protect the investment in the area for the future. The results are four protected areas in Southern Sinai: Ras Mohammed, Nabq, Abu Galum, and Saint Katherine. A total of 11,000 square kilometers, which includes over half of the shoreline on the southern Gulf of Aqaba

Mooring buoys protect corals from anchors, floating swimming platforms, underwater walkways and artificial beaches reduce damage to the coral reefs. Feeding the fish is prohibited as is all fishing activities. The desert regions are having track systems to monitor the damage being done by heavy four wheel drives. The task is not an easy one but positive steps are being taken to preserve this beautiful environment for future generations. Excellent legislation, and private sector cooperation has gone a good way to protect the environment and the Egyptian government is undertaking research at all times to develop contingency plans in the event of a disaster and also undertaking research to check that the measures being taken sustain tourism.

The Bedouin population of Nabq has built huts in the wadi and along the coast. Many of them have given up their nomadic existence, they have become agriculturalists and many of them have salaried employment. Some use it as a summer grazing ground whilst others use it as a primary place of residence, and they need the resource of water from the Wadi both for themselves and the goats and the camels.

They both protect and exploit, they do protect the environment but they are capable of exploiting economic opportunity. Many of them speak a selection of foreign languages as a result of their interaction with tourists. They provide camel trips, trips to Bedouin settlements, or they will sell you Bedouin clothes. They also at times mine the turquoise deposits by hand. They use their extensive practical knowledge and language skills to act as tour guides or teach at camel riding schools.

Modern Twenty First Century life for the Bedouin

Much has been emphasized about the Bedouin their fierce pride, the strict codes of honour that preserve their fragile existence in a hostile land and their loyalty to both the family and the tribe as an extended family. Around the area of Dahab on the Eastern Sinai is Assala, a Bedouin village. It is not the nomadic life that these people have had for centuries, but no self-respecting back yard would be without the “zareeba” the animal enclosure, for the goats and camels.

What has changed is that this is not their only source of income they have embraced a modern world, they do drive taxis, pick up tourists and take them to dive centers, they teach tourists how to ride, many of the huts have a satellite dish and that cannot be hung on the outside of a tent. The television is also having an impact on how their societies change as the women are exposed to Television from Saudi that will change the way they think that they should act as Muslims. Whilst it is still fairly rare for the women to be engaged in paid employment outside of the tribe they will be aware of the latest soaps. Gender issues for the Bedouin were not split along the usual lines men have traditionally made and poured the coffee and women tended the medical needs of the animals.

Clothes and fashions have altered; traditional dress has been discarded for jeans and a tee shirt. They are tending to marry a little older it was normal for a girl to marry just after puberty, and they are having less children. Fifty years ago ten births would have been average now it is around five or six. Whether this is as a result of an incipient consumerism or better health care and mortality rates it is not clear. They live in a polygamous society so that it is not unusual for each household to have fifteen or more children. It is likely that further changes will occur as an increased awareness of consumerism could mean that the young girls will demand to work or get a better education.

Increased spending power has had an impact on the children’s lives, most of the youths have mobile phones and the effects of this consumerism can also be seen with the children. Many of the youths and adults have mobile phones and both sexes have pop videos both from the Arab and Western world. Traditional skills have not yet been lost forever, but there is a danger that the baby can get thrown out with the bathwater. There is still a widespread knowledge of the medicinal properties of plants, but the basic intimate relationship on a daily basis has gone. It will be a while before that plant knowledge is lost forever as their relationships within the tribe are more akin to a clan and they will have relations still living in the “mountain” as they describe the deserts of the Sinai. Living in town with an income means that they have access to health care and pharmacists and they are as likely to use an aspirin for a headache as anything else. The Bedouins even as nomads were never entirely cut off from interactions with others, they interacted through religion as Muslims they went on pilgrimages, they have always been a part of different types of trade, as well as having cultural and poetic exchanges.

Whilst the Bedouin have every right to health care there is a danger that the value and properties of plants will be part of a network of information that will be lost forever. There is certainly no way that their development can be kept back but in the push for modernity there is a danger that valuable expertise gained over a millennium will be lost forever.

Conversely whilst the Bedouin as a people are hurtling into the twenty first Century for many of us we are becoming more remote. Technological advances mean that we live more and remote lives and the lure of a sense of connectedness to land and nature holds an enchanting picture. Many travelers to the Sinai will choose to forego the luxuries of a beach holiday for a few days and will trek and find the Bedouin and the desert.

There is something awesome about the desert, and I am not using the word in the American sense, I mean that there is truly something awe inspiring about a desert. There is a primeval and timeless essence to it that is totally tranquil. There are few distractions in a desert and it really does seem as though it soothes the psyche. There is not just the sense of space and sand and more sand but a desert is beautiful and never more so than with a full moon shimmering over the sand.

An Arab proverb recognizes the power and thrall of the desert.

“Whoever walks in the desert is no longer the person he was.”

Despite the enormous upheaval they have undergone in the last fifty years they are still a force to be reckoned with in all of the Seventeen Arab states, they have persisted in reinventing themselves. They have successfully dealt with the socio-economic changes, they have adapted from a nomadic society to a semi nomadic or even a steeled society. They have come under intense sociopolitical pressure, not just within their traditional tribes, but also in relation to the land rights, that they have lost. Perhaps their biggest challenge is that they have forged an importance in cultural heritage. They have become teachers both in the areas of local tourism and in global tourism, and perhaps that fact alone will ensure their survival in a world that is becoming increasingly hostile towards ethnic minorities. They have a lot to play for in balancing the demands of the ancient and the modern

Bedioun Courtship and marriage customs

Until recently the family would have decided on the suitability of marriage partners, and whilst that is the traditional way things are changing. Some of the young are choosing their own mates. There is a tradition of music and dance within Bedouin society. At wedding parties near the village of Assala the prospective boys will dance around the girl in a semi circle and she will draw one towards her if she finds him attractive. It is acceptable for her to give him a small gift a CD of her favourite singer.

Bedouins do have an opportunity to interact with others before marriage. During religious feasts such as Ramadan both sexes can socialize and drink tea in each other’s homes. Even if a girl has conservative parent, which ground her then the prospective groom, can visit her! When a boy becomes serious he will approach the girl’s father to ask his permission.

Even the chronically shy have opportunities here. If a girl has caught a mans interests he can start the tea drinking sessions, if she approves she stays in and demonstrates that she is an excellent marriage prospect, if she is not interested then she go off to a friend’s to have tea. The Bedouins are not big on formal troths; it is normally sufficient to buy a ring. As befits a society of herders the fatted calf will be slaughtered and fed to the guests, and later there is a mal’ab a party. This is accompanied by as much cacophonous noise as possible. Once it has got dark the men will gather in their jeeps and drive around the village with their wrists glued to the horn. Once inside the dance they make a “cappella” which is a type of rhythmic chanting which they have just made up, and banging on any available receptacle that is likely to produce sound. Once the girls arrive they dance for the men dressed in black shawls beautifully embroidered with shiny silver sequins, which will glint and pick up the light from the moon. Whilst this is gong on the other age groups get together with their peers to celebrate in an equally noisy fashion.

The Bedouin and fashion

The women traditionally wear the same clothes as the women of Cairo, the jalabiyya a standard long robe with a hood The men wear the standard Arabian uniform, the kufiyya, the head cloth and rope. Both sexes wear headgear as a mark of status, the women have a black wrap called a 'asaba. Twenty to thirty years ago the hairstyles oft the women denoted their status, unmarried girls, young wives too young to have had children, married women with children, older matriarchs and widows. In Dahab that has more or less disappeared as the women have the same hairstyles as their contemporary Egyptians. The young are not wearing black headgear, they still tend to cover their hair but bright colours are not unusual.

It was and still is compulsory for young girls to cover their lower faces when they were in the presence of any man that they could legally marry, but some households appear to be enforcing this less rigidly.

Part of the reason for the famed hospitability is the remoteness of the desert you may not see strangers for months on end. There is a tacit respect for the dangers of the desert, and this goes towards a sense of hospitality for which the Bedouins are famed. However they have a reputation for being unforgiving again a result of the hostile environment in which they must survive and an outward sense of ritualistic composure is vital however they do have a cultural advantage over Western cultures.

It is not acceptable for a younger member of a tribe to question the orders of an elder, but there are ways of snubbing someone that is not open to Westerners. The Western way of a direct refusal is not open to them, but if they really do dislike anyone in a town then they leave them alone by the side of the hearth. That is a gesture largely meaningless in European culture but in Bedouin society it is infinitely more effective than slamming the door in someone’s face. However as a social group they are aware that their survival historically was ensured by the survival of the tribe rather than by the survival of one.

Beduoin burial Practises.

Graves are very simple as would be expected from a nomadic group, the dead were buried where they fell, with only a simple stone marking the head and feet. However ever a practical and poor nation historically they left the clothes next to the grave fro anyone who needed them.

BELLY DANCING AND ITS HISTORY

Herodotus

"Erotic dance was a sacred ritual in ancient Egypt, common in fertility rituals and sex magick. (Herodotus.)

Written in 440 BC Herodotus described spontaneous fun, laughter clapping and dances he observed in boats along the Nile. It is debateable whether this type of dancing was the forefather of belly dancing. Certainly there were religious worship and fertility rites in ancient Egypt, and the Ottoman Empire elevated the status of the belly dancer to new heights, but just how much has the history of belly dancing to do with the Bedouins?

Not only is the soul of Belly Dancing at the heart of Arab culture it is more specifically in the soul of the Egyptian culture, some teachers even say that ti is reflected in the way the Egyptians walk and talk, pout and even flirt. At the mo0ment as a form of dance it has become very popular In the West, during the 1960’s it was taught in the States and then it spread to Europe. In 2002 the popularity of belly dancing was confirmed with a dance video Amiraat al-Raqs al-Sharqi, Princesses of Eastern Dance.

The top practitioners of the art in Cairo today boast of having performed before Presidents Carter and Bush, as well as Henry Kissinger, Prince Charles and Camilla Parker Bowles. Hikmat Fahmy performed the belly dance for Hitler and Mussolini a generation before. Egyptian belly dance as an art form was performed for the conquering French when Napoleon invaded Egypt. The Ghwazee tribe was a nomadic group of professional musicians’ and entertainers’; as they were nomadic they needed a quarter of the town where they performed to live in. First reports state that the French found them barbaric but legend has it that they were charmed by the hypnotic and charismatic dances.

During the last ten years there have been many foreigners performing in Cairo, and there has been a decline in local talent, but it is not the same. There is a consensus between the foreigners and the locals as well as locals that pay to see it that only the Arab make “their bodies sing”, which was the description of belly-dancing star Tahiya Carioca.

Even the foreigners agree that they have mastered the technique, but have not captured the soul. In Western dance the trunk is relatively still, whilst the limbs move, but Belly dancing has still limbs and a torso that gyrates. Many dancers attribute this to historical aspects of movement for the Egyptian they undulate, they curve their bodies, in ancient times they carried water jars on the head and the body and the pelvis move but the head is firmly in one position and it does not move and neither does the water.

Foreigners cannot master that art which is not exactly passed on genetically, but the rhythm is passed on from mother to daughter behind closed doors. This is normally done in a secluded female society in a world from which men apart from young brothers are excluded. Belly dancing is a rite of passage for the Bedouins from birth through to menstruation and later marriage, some societies have a raheel dance which means departure and it is to mark the time when a young girl becomes a woman. It is supposed that the rhythmic pelvic movement is intended to mimic the stomachs contractions during labour.

At the beginning of the Twenty first century within Egypt itself there are several contradictions concerning the place of belly dancing in a modern society. Many nationalistic youngsters are currently attacking it as a decadent form of entertainment, whereby the oil rich gulf Arabs swan into Cairo and spend a fortune for a night out, and they contrast this to the plight of the Palestinian’s. There is no doubt that belly dancers have made its aficionados extremely rich, and it has made certain sections of Egyptian society jealous. So much so that a recent very popular novel lampooned the lifestyle of Zaman Fifi Abdo. She is a popular and successful dancer and “The Age of Fifi Abdo” blames her for all that is wrong with modern Cairo. At the height of her fame someone once said of her that her hip dumps were so famous they should be bottled. A dichotomy definitely exists the dancers of the past are idolized as strong independent women who symbolize all that is good in Arab culture and on the other hand the modern dancers are regarded as a relic of the past and symbolises the fading Arab star, they have been responsible for corrupting leaders.

For whatever reasons the art of belly dancing is becoming less popular in Egypt it has become a profession that no longer commands respect. There are several reasons for this partly because the rising prices have meant that poorer people cannot afford to hire the dancers for their local weddings. That has always been a traditional way of the dancers to earn money. Also the nightclubs have become more westernised and trends are changing. The trend has become so serious that the Egyptian government recently revoked all licenses for foreigners to dance the belly dance within Egypt.

Mohammed Ali Street was the area where all the dancers lived and worked, ironically it was named after an Egyptian rule who banished the belly dancers and prostitutes to Southern Egypt a hundred and fifty years ago. It was not only the dancer, the costume designers and anyone else associated with the trade lived in the area, but today Fifi Abdo, was the last of the breed to live and train there. When she earned sufficient money she defected to a luxury block of apartments with views of the Nile.

Another reason that the status of the belly dancer is not what it was is the authorities have limited the dancing at moulid’s, and in certain cases, it is banned altogether, as at the Tanta Moulid. Moulid means birthday In Arabic and the Christians and Muslims both celebrate as a named saint day, of a town or village. However it does not have a religious function so much, it is a popular tradition. The most famous is the "Moulid El-Naby" or the Prophets birthday, which is celebrated, all in the third month of the Islamic calendar.

Prior to this banning the Sufis and the Bedouins would have dressed in their most elaborate costumes and performed a ritual dance the the "Zikr" , swaying to devotional chants. Celebrations and festivities would have gone on all night. Raqs Sharqi, is the Arabic term for what has been Americanised as “belly dancing,” Raqs Sharqi is performed by both women and men, normally solo, to entertain as an improvisational dance expressing the emotions of the music. The successful dancer conveys the emotions and rhythms of the music; it is not the Western idea of a sensual woman’s dance!

This has had the effect of culturally separating belly dancing as an form from the people. Singing and dancing has become more formal, the style is dictated by academies, and the art of the belly dance has been demeaned. However it is still a national obsession and the shame does not seem to affect those that pay to see it.

Belly dance legendary figures, Samia Gamal, Tahiya Karioka, Naima Akef rose to

fame during the golden years of the Egyptian film industry. Later dancer emulated their style and presence and managed to achieve the same level of stardom, many are popular today, as it is normal for a woman still to be dancing in her forties.

The term “ibn al balad”, means the son of the country and it is a concept of identity for the

Egyptians who live in the folk quarters of Cairo; and they possess a common culture or attitude to life. This means that they value the old and the traditional as in the wearing of the galabiya, and they demonstrate old traits of generosity and gallantry, they have a sense of identity with each other and they are sharply defined against the peasants. Residential quarters are more important when defining identity than money class or culture. Staying within the confines of that district when you have become successful and made it has traditionally brought largesse and kudos.

They are regarded as custodians of culture and the real Egyptians and that is a crucial distinction for a people subjugated under other cultures for much of their history. This rather idealized image grew in Nasser’s “Egyptian “Egypt when the country developed a sense of national identity. They are usually of lower middle class origin and hold non-government jobs, as they are often artisans or craftsmen. The singer the dancer the entertainer in general comes into this generic category.

An Awlad el Balad lives in the Sha’abi communities, the areas that are popular, as they have a strong sense of identity. For well over a hundred years Mohammad Ali Street was the epicenter of the Sha’abi quarter and the centre of the Baladi artist, the “real” Baladi artist, and remained so until well into the 1970’s. it declined sharply as a result of economic changes, which broke the codes of conduct which for centuries had protected the entertainers.

EYPTIAN WEDDINGS.

Although Egypt is an Islamic culture it is also an extremely cosmopolitan country which has been subjected to Centuries of external influences. As with any other culture the exact traditions which govern the wedding depends on ethnicity, religion, social status, and whether the location is urban or rural. Negotiations are arrangements to find a partner are private but the actual wedding ceremony itself is extremely public.

Most Egyptian women follow strict Muslim practice they are veiled at puberty and a union is arranged pretty quickly afterwards. Traditionally an Arab girl will be veiled when she reaches puberty, around the age of twelve or thirteen. In some cases, she will be veiled at the age of ten or eleven and then looked after by the older women to ensure that she does not lose her purity. She remains veiled and chaperoned until her wedding day. The taking of the veil is a sign of her moving into womanhood, and efforts are made to ensure that she is married as soon as possible after she is veiled.

It is not normal for the bride and groom to see each other before the wedding. A man intent on marriage had to have a third person to intervene on his behalf and he chose a matchmaker. A matchmaker could ask if there were any suitable girls of a marriageable age. As many Muslims meet socially the traditional way does not need to be employed that does not mean that it does not happen, it does, and when it does they are referred to as salon marriages.

He will not ask for his intended hand but will send a female relative to offer his hand in marriage. The first step of the process is a meeting of the two fathers as head of the household. If they do not agree the wedding does not take place, but if they concur, then a further meeting is arranged. The boy will go to both his parents to the girls house to meet her and her parents. If the marriage has been arranged by the matchmaker this will be the first time the couple will have met. If all parties are happy after this stage then their will be a further meeting with all members of the extended family.

This is a long slow process and when the whole families agree with the marriage and its terms then there is no barrier for the engagement to be announced several months later. There are two distinct parts to this agreement and both are fiscal. The first payment is from the groom or more usually his father to the girls parents the mahr will pay for the expenses of setting up the nuptial home and the gifts that the bride will bring with her. The second part is the shabka, a gift, which is normally a personal gift of jewellery from three groom to the bride Both of these details have to be agreed on and the exact prescribed amount spent, as well as an agreement on the price that will be spent on the nuptials.

Once all this has been agreed on a date will be set for the engagement, a wedding date will not be set until the home is ready. It is normal for the couple to buy the jewellery together accompanied by both the mothers. Historically this gift would have been a gold ring, but increasingly a diamond is becoming more popular. The engagement party is the responsibility of the bride’s family and is a smaller replica of the ceremony that will happ0en at the wedding. The Couple engage the rings which in common with Mediterranean society is worn on the right hand, and the agreement is sealed with a cake.

It is after this party that the tempo gets more serious, the two mothers meet to make the final arrangements for the wedding, but things get better for the couple. If it is a salon wedding they have a limited chance to get acquainted, but if they have met then they may spend more time with each other. He must present himself at the bride’s house and always with a suitable gift, they may go out and some of these outings may be without a chaperone.

During this time the mothers start to prepare the house within the financial parameters that have been agreed on. At some point before the wedding their has to be signed a formal contract, the katb el ktab or the writing of the book, it is performed by the sheikh, in a mosque, at the home of the bride or in a special office. This formal contract s normally between the two fathers, but it can be between the groom’s father and the bride’s appointed agent, which may even be herself if she is a widow.

For this to be binding the two join their right hands together affixed at the thumb, and a white cloth is placed over the hands. In rural areas it may be performed just before the wedding. Once this has been completed the woman receives the approved sum of money, and the terms of the divorce if the man divorces the woman. At this juncture the contract is binding on her and if she pulls out, of the arrangement before the wedding then she will have to repay the money. If the man reneges, he has to give her half of the divorce settlement. Two witnesses are needed for this and the fathers usually sign, and once this is done then five copies are necessary all with the couple’s photographs and thumbprints. The groom, signs an inventory, the ayma, before the wedding and this is a list of all the furniture and household goods supplied for the home. This is a form of promissory note indicating that he is now responsible for these for life. The gold and jewellery that he has bought are also displayed.

A henna party is arranged usually for the day before the wedding all the women will

dance and sing, bathe her and then paint henna designs on her hands and feet, and remove all her body hair. She would process through the streets, covered completely with a red cashmere shawl, wearing a small cap or even a crown, under a silk canopy open only at the front, and accompanied by musicians and her friends. After the bride and her party have visited the bathhouse, they return to the bride’s house, where the celebrations continue. A large quantity of henna is made into a paste, and the bride holds a lump of it in her hand.

Each of her guests presses a coin into the lump; when it is covered, she scrapes it off her hands onto the edge of a basin of water. Once all her guests have contributed, more henna is applied to her hands and to her feet, which are then bound with linen and left overnight. By the next morning, her hands and feet have become a deep orange red. The guests dye their own hands and feet with the remainder of the henna.

A similar preparatory party is held at the groom’s house; he is bathed, shaved, and fed a lot of protein. In the city, the bride and groom visit a photographer for a wedding photograph to be taken before going to the ceremony. The marriage contract is signed and registered the next day, and after sunset the wedding party begins. Traditionally the bride goes to the groom’s house, but this time on a camel or a saddled ass, or in a closed carriage completely hidden from view. The procession may take the most circuitous route possible and the procession may last several hours. At the bridegroom’s house, a feast is held, and then the bridegroom goes to the mosque to pray. On returning from the mosque, he is introduced to and left alone with his bride. After giving her money, he lifts her veil and sees her for the first time. Her garments are removed, during which she is expected to offer as much resistance as possible.

In cities today, parents hire a venue for the wedding, which, depending on their wealth, may be a ballroom, an entire five-star hotel, a hotel nightclub, or other nightclub or restaurant. The bride and groom will arrive either by car or by horse-drawn transport, the caleche. The bride and groom are led from the transport by a group of musicians and dancers to thrones on a dais in the main celebration room.

This part of the event is called a zaffa. Middle-class, less expensive weddings may not include the zaffa and the thrones. This journey may take quite some time to complete, as the couple will be stopped on the way for photographs and for the guests to dance. Throughout the evening, the guests take turns in approaching them with their congratulations. After the meal there is usually a band and a singer, and the bride and groom lead the dancing. A belly dancer and her band will be included in the evening’s entertainment. The night sometimes ends with a disco. During the evening the bride and groom may cut a cake, in the center of the dance floor, and exchange rings. If the wedding is celebrated at a nightclub or restaurant, the bride and groom might not sit on thrones, but they are likely to be called up on stage to dance and be congratulated; even complete strangers will join in with the congratulations.

Variations occur according to social standing and wealth. In the poorer urban areas and city outskirts there may be a party at the groom’s house before the engagement party at the bride’s house, where she will be publicly given gifts of gold jewelry. The wedding celebrations are carried out in the street, which is decorated with lights. Rows of canopies and chairs are set up. The thrones are set up to one side of the street and a stage is prepared for the musicians. Men and women sit apart, and soft drinks and cake are served to the guests. In rural areas the partying may last for up to a month after the wedding, with sacrifices of sheep and cows, readings from the Koran, recitation of prayers, music, and dancing. Here, again, the sexes are segregated.

In rural areas, proof of virginity is sometimes displayed. The bride’s mother and her female relatives serve breakfast to the couple in the bridal chamber on the morning after the wedding, again containing a lot of protein. Proof of virginity is sometimes required and is displayed on a handkerchief rather than on a sheet. Additionally, sometimes, the newly married woman will be checked for pregnancy after the first month.

Marriage centers on the church for members of Coptic Christian sects. Priests know the families intimately—he receives confessions, makes regular house visits, and organizes Coptic Clubs where young people can meet. If a couple wish to be engaged they are free to make the agreement themselves, but they do involve their families, who check the status and respectability of the other family before undertaking negotiations. Once a verbal agreement has been reached, the priest is informed of the engagement. The church retains records of all marriages and engagements, and the priest checks that neither of the couple has been married or engaged before (if the church has been informed of the breaking of any previous engagement then the couple may proceed). Copts do not allow divorce, the only exception being the case of adultery. The young woman’s family pays for the engagement party, the church fees, and other expenses, and the man buys the cake and gifts of gold for his fiancée. If she breaks off the engagement, she is obliged to return all the gifts; if he breaks it off, they are not returned.

On the day of the engagement, the bride usually goes to the hairdresser, and afterwards meets the groom. The couple goes to have their photograph taken and then to church where they sign a contract, just inside the church, before the engagement ceremony. This contract has to be witnessed. If the family is poor, the engagement ceremony takes place at the home. Prayers are said, and the priest gives the couple their rings and blesses them by marking the sign of the cross in holy oil on the couple’s foreheads, chins, and wrists. After the service, congratulations are received, more photographs are taken, and a party is held with the couple seated on thrones. In the period between the engagement and the wedding, the household is prepared, with the man responsible for all the furnishings except kitchen equipment and bedroom furnishings. He also has to provide gifts for his fiancée. Before the wedding, the couple each has all their body hair removed, and they each have a pre-wedding celebration with friends. Henna is not usually used, except in rural area, as this is a Muslim this is a Muslim tradition with singing and dancing, and the groom has an evening out with his friends.

On the wedding day, usually a Sunday and never a Wednesday or Friday because these are days for fasting, the priest begins to prepare the marriage contract before the bride arrives at the church, continuing to write it during the ceremony of prayer. The groom meets the bride at the church, where she is given away by her father. Once the contract is signed and witnessed the priest gives each a ring and then anoints them with the holy oil as he did during the engagement. Each is given a red sash, gold cloak, and gold-colored crown, so that they are dressed like a king and queen, and they kneel before the altar for prayers. After the priest has offered advice, the sashes, cloaks, and crowns are removed and they leave the church. The wedding party is paid for by the bridegroom. The day after the marriage, the bride’s mother prepares their breakfast. In some rural areas, proof of virginity may be displayed, again on a handkerchief. A very religious couple, a small minority, will fast, abstain from everything, or even go to a monastery, for three days after the wedding.